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Mai Thị Trà - Keeper of the Flame in the Huế Kitchen

28/05/2025

Mai Thị Trà - Keeper of the Flame in the Huế Kitchen

An enduring love for chè and the culture of Huế

In a small house on Điện Biên Phủ Street, Huế City – right next to Từ Đàm Pagoda – artisan Mai Thị Trà still lives a simple life on her own, day after day, with a deep love for the cuisine and people of Huế.

Born into a distinguished family (her aunt was the wife of Emperor Duy Tân, and her father was a district magistrate under the Nguyễn Dynasty), Mrs. Trà was trained in the domestic arts from a young age. Her passion for cooking took root in her childhood days around the old family kitchen, and gradually became her lifelong calling.

The woman who revived more than 50 traditional Huế sweet soups

Over a journey of more than 45 years, she has revived and taught dozens of traditional Huế chè (sweet soup) recipes, from royal court desserts to humble vegetarian folk versions. Many dishes once at risk of being forgotten – such as chè lục tàu xá (mung bean and seaweed sweet soup), chè khuôn đậu, chè ngũ quả (five-fruit sweet soup), chè mè đen (black sesame sweet soup), royal bánh măng… – have been restored from her memory and masterful skill.

For her, “making chè is not just a technique but an art, a living culture”. Every bowl of chè must satisfy all five senses: colour – aroma – taste – touch – feeling.

Inspiring others, from the classroom to the community

A former literature teacher at Đồng Khánh School (now Hai Bà Trưng High School), she taught not only reading and writing but also passed on homemaking and culinary skills to generations of students. After retiring, she continued teaching cooking at the Women's Employment Center and the Huế Tourism College.

Recently, she has served as an official advisor to the Vietnam Culinary Culture Association, taking part in the record-setting “Vietnamese Royal and Folk Sticky Rice and Sweet Soups” project, helping to elevate “Huế – the Culinary Capital”.

A lifetime of quiet yet brilliant dedication

Without any fanfare about building a name, and with no need for the spotlight or titles, artisan Mai Thị Trà is still regarded as a “living witness” to the culinary culture of the ancient capital. For decades, she has quietly researched, revived and taught dishes once at risk of being lost – from royal chè to traditional Huế cakes, from savoury dishes to vegetarian ones.

For her, the greatest joy lies not in recognition but in the moment of sharing her secrets and seeing the next generation embrace and carry them on. “If I kept the secrets to myself, one day those dishes would disappear...” – she says gently, as if passing on a simple yet profound philosophy of life: cultural values only live on when they are handed down.

At HiPs, we are proud to accompany artisan Mai Thị Trà in preserving and sharing the essence of Huế cuisine. You can now find books she wrote herself in our store, including: Chè Huế (Huế Sweet Soups), Món chay Huế (Huế Vegetarian Dishes), and Mứt bánh Huế (Huế Candied Fruits and Cakes) — treasured volumes containing a lifetime of passion and kitchen experience.

If you'd like to own these little “treasures” carrying the flavours of old Huế, don't hesitate to contact HiPs!

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